Parts Suppliers

How to find the parts you need: This section shows many of the parts used in the build. Alongside each image there is a Web Search Description. Instead of posting web-links I have instead given a Search Description because web-links or suppliers often disappear or products are no longer available. Use the Search Description in Google, EBay or Amazon.

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

1m Black Battery Welding Cable 25mm² 170a Flexible 4 Gauge Earth OFC
1m Red Battery Welding Cable 25mm² 170a Flexi 4 Gauge Power OFC
LED Reading Light 12V 24V Spotlight Touch Switch USB Caravan Lamp
2.8mm x 5.5mm DC Male Power Plug Jack Connector Laptop Jack
12V LED Touch Sensitive On/Off Light
12V 24V 4 Way Power Distribution Bus Bar 4x5mm STUDS 100A RATED

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

12V Car Cigarette Plug Adapter Power Socket 5V 3.1A Dual USB
12V Waterproof LED Awning Strip Light Campervan Lamp Cool White
20-100AMP Trip 12V DC Car Audio Solar Energy Inline Circuit Breaker Fuse
60A-300Amp Universal Circuit Breaker Audio Fuse Holder Switch
5050 LED Strip Light 12V Caravan White Blue Red Green 10 30 cm
Automotive 12V 24V Stranded 2 Core Flat Twin Thin Wall Auto Cable

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)


Black Heat Shrink Car Electrical Tube Sleeving Cable – All Sizes & Lengths
Blade Fuse Box 12 Way Distribution 12V32V UK
Blue illuminated Round Rocker Switch SPST 12V 20A R13-112B-02
Caravan Mains Leads Adapter Set
CBE PC 180 Power management system

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

CBE SPDT 12v Two Way Switch Graphite Frame Lights Power
Copper Tube Terminals Terminal Battery Welding Cable Lug Ring Crimp
Heat Shrink Tubing 560 Pc Electric Insulation Tube Heat Shrink Wrap
Illuminated LED Dot Circular Round Rocker Switch 12V SPST Auto
JOHN GUEST Semi Rigid 5 Meter 12MM OD Fresh Water Hose Pipe
Maxxair Maxxfan Deluxe Roof Vent Fan With Remote Control

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

Rear Brake Light Reverse Camera Kit 7 LED Monitor For Fiat Ducato Citroen
Reverse Polarity Test Plug
Round Metal Ring Waterproof Push Button Switch 12mm
SHARP 300W Mono SOLAR Black PANEL MPPT CHARGER Bluetooth Kit
Stainless Steel Rubber Lined P Clips Wiring Hose Clamp
Sterling Power Battery to Battery Charger

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

VICTRON ENERGY Phoenix True Sine Inverter 12V 800 VA 230V UK Socket
Victron MPPT Control Panel LCD Display for VE.Direct BlueSolar SmartSolar
Victron Phoenix Inverter Remote Switch VE.Direct REC040010210R
Victron VE.Direct cable (3m) MPPT Control to VE.Direct controllers
Victron 800W Inverter
WaterProof DCDC (12V to 20V 3A 60W) Power Converter Regulator DC

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

4 X 2400mm Anodised Aluminium Curved Corner Profile 15mm Boards
4.5M Car Door Boot Edge Protector Strip Trim U Shape Rubber Black
35mm Forstner Hinge Hole Boring Cutter Wood Drill Bit Drill Wood Hole Bit
50 x Medium Grey Plastic POZI Screw Push in Cover Caps 6g 8g Screw Heads
62mm stick pinsinsulation hangers (camper van conversion) box of 50
Concealed Hinge & Mounting Plate Drilling Jig – 26mm & 35mm Cup Template

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

Flexible Plywood Sheets – 5mm Flexi Ply Bendy Plywood Flexi Board
Furniture T TRIM Router 3MM SLOT Cutter for knock on edging Tungsten
Gas Strut Fixing 50NM TO 150NM
Heavy Duty Sound Deadening Mat 2.5mm 10 XL 300mm x 400mm Silver
Iron on Pre-Glued Veneer Melamine Edging Tape 22mm DUST GREY GLOSS
Kreg SK03 112874 Pocket-Hole Self Tapping Screw Project Kit 675pc Jig Joinery

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

LED Aluminum Channel Profile Transparent 6 Pack 1M
Mastic Sealing Sealant Strip 19mm x 5m Caravan & Motorhome
Nova Faux Leatherette Artificial Leather Upholstery Vehicle Fabric
Cushion and Fabric Makers
Plastic Non Slip 5 Compartment Utensil Cutlery Tray
Silver trim 15MM Double Lipped 10 Metre Furniture Knock-On Edging

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

Solway Campervan Panels
Stanley Double Edge Laminate Trimmer 12mm-25mm Twin Blades
Wide Bow Door Drawer Cupboard Handles Aluminium UA219

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

3/4 ” Sink Waste with Plug Chrome Caravan Camper Motorhome
8 Metres Convoluted Waste Water Pipe 20mm (3/4) ID – Caravan
12mm push fit half inch BSP female water pump connector
360° Rotation Caravan Boat Motorhome Galley Faucet Tap with Switch
Shurflo Accumulator Tank 0.7lt – 20 psi
Caravan Push-Fit Straight Adaptor 12mm – half inch Barb Stem

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

Shurflo Water Pump Inline Water Filter 1/2″ BSP Wing Nut to 1/2″ BSP Male
Jabsco Shurflow water pump connector, 12mm push fit to 1/2″ BSP Female
John Guest 12MM Stop Tap – Caravan Motorhome Boat Camper
John Guest Tube Inserts Pipe Support 12mm
Shurflo Water Pump 30psi 12V 2.1 Bar Auto Trail King 7
Truma Cold Water Elbow Fitting 12-10mm

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

Truma Ultrastore John Guest 12mm Push Fit Non Return Valve
Truma ULTRASTORE Water Heater Elbow Fitting
Whale Cheap GP1002 Water Pump Submersible 12v

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

16″ Alloy Wheels Off Road Inter Action Alloys Gloss Black
16 BF Goodrich All Terrain Tyres
Adjustable Fuel Pump Lid Tank Cover Remove Spanner Tool
Damar Towingstrap UK
Draper Mini Folding Camping Spade Shovel & Pouch
Indel Webasto Marine Cruise Elegance CR49 Compressor 49L Fridge Freezer

Search Descriptions Below (for the above products)

JP Combi Diesel Heater
Sika Sikaflex 512 Sealant 300ml
Webasto Diesel Cooker X100

Maxxfan (how to fit)

Where to fit: I decided to fit my Maxxfan in an area at the front of the van, a raised section in the roof panel, it was ideal for fitting a vent or fan and probably designed with this in mind. This same area is on the Peugeot Boxer, Fiat Ducato and Citroen Relay. The plan is to have a Maxxfan at the front, which is away from the bed so its silent at night and to have a second roof vent (no fan) over the bed. This is so fresh air can circulate throughout the van, especially important when the weather is hot. Another reason to fit at the front of the van is because this fan is fairly close to the cooking area.

Roof Hole Sizes: The cut-out hole is 356mm X 356mm (14″ X 14″) or 400mm x 400mm. See your instructions or Maxxfan type.

Maxxfan Deluxe Roof Hole 356mm X 356mm

Maxxfan Deluxe Roof Hole 400 X 400mm

Which size roof hole? I have the larger Maxxfan but instead of cutting the 400 X 400mm roof hole as the manufacturer suggests I cut my roof hole to 360 X 360. See below.

Method A: If you are only using Sikafkex 522 to seal the base of the Maxxfan then it’s likely you will need to cut your roof hole to 400 X 400mm this is because the fan will need to sit fairly flush to the surface of the roof. This method is fine. Tip: Make sure you use plenty of Sixaflex if it’s too thin and the fan is screwed down firm then it could push out and leak over time (sunlight, vibration and too small amount of Sikaflex). A well known YouTube camper-van builder did just this and six months later his roof started to leak. He cured the problem by using Mastic see below.

Method B: – The Submarine Method: Ideal if you plan to drive your van into a Lake. This is the method I decided to use. Instead of sealing the Maxxfan base with only Sikaflex I sat the Maxxfan on two layers of Mastic. This meant that when the Maxxfan was screwed down the mastic didn’t easily spread or go thin as can happen with using only Sikaflex. I am not saying using only Sikaflex 522 isn’t suitable, instead I am adding a little more protection against possible leaks. I still sealed the outer edges around the fan with Sikaflex 522. Because I used a Mastic base this raised the fan a little and thus I didn’t need to make the roof hole 400 X 400 instead 370 X 370mm was adequate. Did I need to cut to 370mm X 370mm? No, 400mm X 400mm would have also worked.

Before you start cutting always check the size of the hole you are about to cut and follow the manufacturers instructions (sizes). The instructions may vary or the manufacturer may have made changes since this article was published!

Start by making a Wooden Frame: You will need this later to fit on the inside of your van roof. Your Wood Frame needs to be square and have an inside hole of 360mm X 360mm (This size should work on both a 400 X 400mm roof hole as well as the 356mm X 356mm roof hole). The ideal thickness of your frame is 40mm deep. To do this I used 20mm X 45mm timber and doubled up ie placing the 20mm side on top of each other so its 40mm. (dont worry if you cant follow this there is an image below)

Prepare the underside (inside of your van). I used a bin liner which I cut open and taped to the inside of the van roof. This was to stop the metal filings going everywhere inside the van. TIP: Never leave filings either inside or outside your van, they will mark it when they rust.

Start by marking out your hole with masking tape. Draw your square on the masking tape and check the size in the instructions. ( I made my hole 360mm X 360mm to give me “wriggle room”). Place the Maxxfan Frame (not the whole fan) on the line that you have drawn on the masking tape, does it look correct? Its better to cut the hole size too small than too large so check that the fan has enough room around its plastic base so that it can be screwed down onto the roof , and wood frame below the roof.

Below: Just being extra careful…look carefully and you will see an outside line drawn by pencil onto the van roof. I placed the fan on the rood and drew a line around it. Its tells me that I have ample metal to work with and it makes sure that I dont cut a hole too large by mistake. Dont forget to paint the edges with Hammerite.

Wood support frame: Once you have cut your hole you will need to attach the wooden support frame on the underside of your roof. Again the internal size of the hole is 360mm X 360mm and its depth is 40mm (2 pieces of wood bonded together to equal 40mm). Note how the inside of the wood frame is identical to the hole cut in the van roof (360X360).

Below: The Woodframe is bonded to the roof using Sikaflex 522 and clamped firm. (It will also be screwed once the Fan is fitted so its never going to come off.) Now you can see that the Internal Woodframe is exactly the same size as the hole I have cut (360mm X 360mm)

White Mastic Strip/Tape: I forgot to take an image of this stage, but apply a “double” layer of White Mastic Strip (one layer on top of the other) to give a really nice seat (and seal) for your Maxxfan to sit on. If you look under the Maxxfan you will see ridges molded into the plastic, this is so that the mastic forms a very good grip and seal.

Once you have applied the Mastic now place the Maxxfan Frame into the hole. Press it down into the mastic and then drill and screw so that the screws go through the metal roof and into your woodframe below, thus clamping everything together. (The mastic has not yet been added to the frame below)

Now its time to fit and screw the Maxxfan into its base. Dont forget to seal all the edges with plenty of Sikaflex 522

How to cut the roof lining hole perfectly (inside the van): Place the roof board onto your van roof and secure. Dont worry about covering or hiding the fan, just remember approximately where the fan is located. Then drill a hole and insert a bearing router cutter as below. These are fairly cheap to buy. Then run the bearing against the wooden frame, the cutter will automatically cut the hole, its super easy to do and it takes less than a minute before your roof hole is cut. The hole will be perfectly aligned with your Maxxfan.

The ply below is 3.5mm thick, easy to bend and lightweight.

Dont forget now is the time to bring your wires through and wire up the fan

Inside the Van: If you look carefully you can see a nice gap around the fan, this is were the internal cover sits. (You can also see some of the mastic if you look very carefully. Those plastic ridges have help form a good seal).

What did I line the roof with? I covered my roof with a nice simulated leather thats easy to wipe down. Its bonded with spray glue. Its supplied by “I Want Fabric” in Manchester UK. They have every type of fabric even vehicle fabrics and fire retardant fabrics. Prices are good it cost me about £20 to complete this roof and it has a lovely affect.

https://www.iwantfabric.com/vehicle-upholstery/automotive-leather

Finish off by adding the Maxxfan cover. The roof isn’t fully finished, I later added an edging strip to the roof joints.

Worst Items to Avoid

What was the worst item I ever bought for the van?

At the moment there is only one, maybe later there will be more but for now I will explain one item everyone should avoid buying.

Of all the items in my van I can think of only one really good bargain buy, the Kitchen Tap. I saw it on EBay and whilst the seller had sold over a 1,000 and had a very good feedback I thought I would buy one, at under £20, whatever could go wrong?


Insanity Looms: The Tap drove me bonkers (crazy) from the day I fitted it. It worked ok, the occasional drip annoyed me as I had to keep it pointing over the sink. But what concerned me more was the fact I kept catching the Hot and Cold Levers and turning the tap on by accident. I use the kitchen work-surface all the time and I once caught the Tap Lever when picking an item up on leaving the van (for a short time). Fortunately I spotted a small trickle of water. But that was enough warning, that Tap had to go, its far too easy to flood the van, it was dangerous.


It gets worse. My water system has all the protection switches a system could need. There’s a Master Water Pump On/Off Switch (plus a simple kill-switch), dual Stop Taps (a separate one for the Combi boiler) plus a Drain Tap, all located in an accessible place. 


The system is great when you remember to use it. And I did for most of the time even draining it down on sub zero days (freezing). But one day I forgot. The outside temperature dropped to no more than Zero to -1 degree and I had left the water system switched on overnight. That should not be a problem, but it was. Usually I run the van each week usually to “air” it (warm it). On this occasion I went out in the van, later stopping to do a little shopping then drove a bit more and pulled over for a cup of tea in a nice location. Thats when I heard the faint sound of the water pump.

Did you notice anything about the Tap Above?

Have a look again.

The Tap had frozen overnight, and when the van became warm it started to thaw. The real problem is that the Tap is DIE-CAST and poor quality die-casting as well. The Tap had frozen inside, I didn’t notice it at first as it was still frozen. I was lucky because when I went shopping it was only for a short time. Any longer then the pump would have started and the Tap would have flooded the van (does everyone remember to turn off the pump every time they leave their van? ).

Below: This is the image used in the advert to sell the product. Its one of the reasons why I bought it. In fact the material used wasn’t Brass it was a die-cast zinc alloy, the type used in the 1960/70’s to make toy cars. Its very cheap and unsuitable, the country of origin is China.

Advice: Buy a quality Brass Tap, preferably with ceramic internal fittings, and NEVER buy a Die-Cast Tap . The Tap shouldn’t drip if its quality and it should easily withstand very cold temperatures.

Never Buy a Tap with Levers: If you do you will catch them and keep turning the Tap on when you dont want it. If you really prefer Levers then try before you buy and make sure they are firm, mine were weak, the slightest touch opened the Tap. Better still, get a Tap with a Turn-Locks like below.

Try and buy from a trusted source or Brand Name.

DVLA How to get approval

UK Only: This page is about getting approval from a Van or a Van With Windows into a Campervan and being officially registered by the “Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency” (DVLA). The actual term that DVLA will register on the document is ” Motor-Home”

PART 1: THE FAILURE (There are 2 parts)

Its worth reading Part One (The Failure) first as it shows just how easy it is to fail. In fact I estimate that most people that apply for DVLA Campervan approval will fail. This seems to be the case with regards the number of comments on the internet and also YouTube. In fact at the time of writing this article I haven’t found anyone that has passed (March 2021). Instead most people appear to have been granted the term Van With Windows“. Dont worry if you fail it doesn’t mean you cannot get insurance. Your vehicle maybe registered as a Van With Windows but there are still Insurance Companies that will recognize it as a camper-van regardless of what DVLA state it is.

Arian Flux Insurance is one such reputable company, you can call them on 0344 381 6502 they are based in King’s Lynn, Norfolk (established 1974 with 1,000 staff and 600,000 policy holders) https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/

DVLA (UK Law) says this vehicle is not a camper-van?

I read so many times articles from people that have tried to re-register their vehicle as a camper-van after having completed a conversion. To be fair some do look like vans with windows and without closer inspection I couldn’t say for sure whether they were camper-vans or not.

The new law states that the vehicle needs to include items such as a fixed bed, cooker, table etc and also have two or more windows down one side of the vehicle. Perhaps the main feature that the people at DVLA are looking for is that the vehicle must look like a camper-van, in other words not look like a work van with windows, perhaps something that the police can easily recognize as being either a commercial vehicle or a leisure vehicle at a glance.

According to my first application with DVLA my vehicle could not be recognized as being a camper-van and for example if someone was to see it on a road or parked up, then they would not be able to distinguish it from a commercial vehicle. This is not my opinion but the opinion of the DVLA who had reclassified the vehicle as a “van with windows” and as such not to be confused with a camper-van or leisure vehicle. I find that difficult to understand along with the hundreds maybe well over a thousand vehicle owners that have also failed to have their vehicle reclassified.

What is a van with windows? The exact term on the DVLA V5C is as follows – Body Type: Van/Side Windows – Taxation Class: Light Goods Vehicle. The term means that the vehicle is registered for carrying light goods and thus should be treated as such although it is not illegal to carry people nor to sleep or cook inside it.

The DVLA reclassification form is fairly basic. It has a list of requirements that need to be ticked off. Most of the list is definitive, its basically black or white, for example either you have a fixed bed and cooker or you dont etc. One area that’s wide open for different interpretations is the exterior of the vehicle and whether the graphics and external appearance is that of a camper-van. DVLA hold all the cards here, what they says goes and that may well not be right or fair as I will explain. I cannot find any rules that state the external graphics need to be of a certain shape, size colour or location. What this means is that the judgement lies solely on the perception of the person at the DVLA judging the vehicle at the time.

MOT: When I took my vehicle for its MOT after the conversion I hadn’t submitted my reclassification form to DVLA nor did I mention to the MOT tester that I planned to do so. What I found was that the MOT testing station had tested the vehicle as a Category 4 vehicle (any goods vehicle not exceeding 3000 kg) or camper-van or motor-home. The MOT testing station were unable to distinguish it as anything other than a camper-van, yet DVLA can. The reason is not plain to see, which thus raises the question. What is the benchmark that the DVLA uses and why isn’t this benchmark being offered to the public for them to work from? My guess? There isn’t a benchmark as such, the visual judgement is at the discretion of the DVLA viewer at that time.

DVLA Failure: Van with Windows NOT a Camper-Van

PART 2: THE PASS-Now its a Motor Caravan

Once I received my documents back from DVLA showing that I had failed in my attempt to get the vehicle registered as a Camper-Van I started to look at reasons DVLA could fail it.

I believe most people fail because of the Exterior: The interior is a matter of box ticking, either you have the DVLA requirements or not, its as simple as that. The Exterior is a different matter, this is an area of personal opinion there are no definitive rules.

There was one area that I believe caused my vehicle to fail.

Look below, if you were for example a police vehicle following me, say, 50 feet behind, could you say for certain my vehicle is a van or camper-van? My view is that DVLA use a “general rule” and below I believe this was the weakness on my application that caused me to fail.

Now to get DVLA Motor Caravan Approval

Taking the base vehicle I simply added a few extra graphics as shown below. The graphics cost around £40 for the set and as an added bonus I wrote the word “camper-van” so that a blind man on a galloping horse couldn’t mistake this vehicle for anything else. In my opinion its difficult for the DVLA to say it is not a camper-van or motor caravan.

I had enough stickers left over so I added more graphics to the side, just in case those original grey stripes were not enough.

The result

It passed and is now fully registered as a Motor-home. So what does that give me that a Van With Windows doesn’t? Well there were some insurance companies that were not willing to offer me camper-van insurance. This now changes, I should be able to get insurance coverage from all insurance companies that offer this type of insurance. Hopefully I will be able to shop around for the best quotes and when I come to sell the vehicle on I can list it as a true fully registered Motor-Home.

Wheels & Tyres

Upgrading the Wheels is it worth it?

It seems to be fairly popular to change to larger more rugged tyres. I have seen a few vehicles particularly off-grid campervans that have had this upgrade. But is it worth it?

Why Change them?

I once had a situation in my car were it got stuck on wet grass. The grass was fairly flat and although it was wet the car didn’t sink in mud. With some wheel spinning I managed to break free but another car wasn’t so lucky and had to be towed off by a pickup truck. What surprised me was just how easy it was to get stuck, I think that because the grass was short and wet it added to the problem. My camper-van will be going into such places and I didnt want to repeat this event.

Positives and Negatives:

Negatives: Lets start with the Negatives. Firstly, the costs, if you add the alloy wheels then its going to cost around £1100 (about $1500). Then there is the increase in fuel, my tyres will add 0.03mpg in other words for every 100 miles I drive it will cost me 3 miles. Then there is the additional noise. Peugeot recommend a tyre that is rated to a 71db sound level and my tyres will give 74db sound level. The Peugeot Boxer Tyres are 15″ and my new tyres are 16″ which may give a speedo discrepancy.

Positives: Rugged Tyres will get you out of rough parking-trouble unless you do something stupid (common sense applies). They can also last longer than standard tyres, mine are rated with a life span of 50K. Also they ride the UK roads rather well and potholes are never a problem (fewer punctures hopefully) as they have much tougher side walls. They may also increase the height of the vehicle (Peugeot are 15″ mine are 16″), this is ideal especially as I have under-slung water tanks. Above all they are very tough and practical.

Which Tyres? I decided on a set of BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2 with a set of Alloy Wheels, they are available from Elite Wheel and Tyres and come ready to fit (Balanced with Locking Nuts).

https://www.elitewheels.co.uk/

Are they more noisy?

Actually I was surprised, they are the same as my previous set or maybe even quieter. This may be because my previous tyres were a mixture of unbranded tyres. Its likely they were not rated highly for sound and so I didn’t notice any difference. Others have also reported that the BF Goodrich KO2 are fairly quiet, I have to argee these tyres are not loud in any way.

Awning (Fiamma F80S)

Adding the awning is supposed to be a two man job. However, as I fitted this during Covid19 lockdown I wasnt supposed to mix with anyone. This meant fitting it on my own (or waiting for some weeks).

Weight: The F80 S weights 51kg which is heavy enough, however, its also 4 meters long so its awkward to maneuver.

Kit Type and Size: The kit I used was for the Peugeot/Fiat/Citroen Model (After 06-2006) With a Roof height – H2 (2,524 mm) Length – L4 (6,363 mm) Kit Type F80S 400 and the fitting kit number was 98655-904.

How to fit yourself (as a one-man job). With a 4 meter long awning weighing 51kg then walking this up a ladder may be difficult. The way I was able to get the kit onto the roof was fairly simple and not difficult at all. I left the kit inside its packing box and decided only to unpack once it was on the roof of the van this prevented it scratching the vehicle during the lift. I reversed my vehicle so that it was about 8 foot from a tall wall (my house) I placed a ladder against the wall and stood the kit upright against the back of the vehicle (opp the rear doors). I took the end of the kit (box) that was on the floor and walked it up the ladder with the box resting on the edge of the roof, then sliding it fully onto the roof. Its not as difficult as it sounds. It took me less than 2 minutes to get it onto the roof and about half the weight was supported by the van. Once the kit is on the roof you can remove the cardboard packaging. Support the awning on some of the packaging material or it will scratch your van roof.

Below: The awning is on the roof for the first time now its time to add the brackets.

Below: I decided to fit the first bracket and add a plumb line. Pay attention as each bracket (there are 3) goes in its own place, you cannot mix them. I haven’t added any Sikaflex at this stage because I dont know whether these brackets will need adjustment. Its very important that the brackets are aligned and also important that they are at the same height.

Start by adding the Front and Rear Bracket first then add the centre bracket.

Below: Make sure you use SikaFlex 252 (not 512)

Below: Apply plenty so that the bracket can bed-down onto the Sikaflex

Below Make sure the surface is clean but also completely dry and not damp: I added masking tape to keep the area neat before adding Sikaflex but also because I was working in October and I was just around the minimum recommended temperature for using Sikaflex. There had been rain earlier in the day and I had an opportunity were the weather changed and the sun came out. I made sure the surface was completely dry. A good way to check is to use masking tape. Masking tape hates the damp, it easily comes off on damp surfaces. By using this tape I could see it stuck well and that suggested the surface was bone dry (fully dry).

Should I wait for the Sikaflex to become firm? I didn’t want to add the Sikaflex then tighten the brackets down hard only to find that the Sikaflex squirted out at the sides leaving a very thin layer. I was unsure whether to leave the Sikaflex to stiffen and to tighten the brackets later. When I applied the Sikaflex to the brackets I noticed it was very dense (thick), perhaps this was because the weather was cold so I decided to tighten the brackets to see how well it “stayed-put” (stayed in place) under the brackets or whether most of it would be pushed out under pressure. What I found was that the majority of the Sikaflex stayed in place, even under high pressure. This gave me confidence to tighten the bolts. I prefer this method because if left too long then the Sikaflex could become “rubber like” and make the brackets too high thus making the awning not level and possibly unstable.

Below: Now that the Brackets are fitted and the Sikaflex added its time to check that each bracket is aligned correctly using the plumb-line.

Below: I wasn’t planning to fit the awning until the Sikaflex had fully cured (dried). But it didn’t make any difference because the brackets had been fully bolted down and were not going to move any further. I did see someone on Youtube that hadn’t aligned one of the brackets correctly and he had an awful time trying to remove the bracket. So much so that he damaged a bracket and van roof removing it (not something I wanted to do). This shows just how strong Sikaflex 252 is. Once its on, it isn’t coming off.

Below: I am glad I fitted the awning when I did rather than leaving the Sikaflex to fully dry overnight and fitting the awning the next day. In fact I dont plan to use the vehicle for two days so that I can be 100% sure everything is fine (some recommend you dont use the vehicle for 24 hours). By fitting the awning whilst the Sikaflex wasn’t fully dry gave me the satisfaction of knowing that if I had made an error I could correct it and remove. Some people have fitted the brackets then tried to fit the awning the following day only to find they didn’t align the brackets correctly. I felt it better to avoid this mistake.