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6152 Case Project – Polishing & Ageing.

How to build the 6152 step-by-step using the Nightwatch 6152 Case:

This section shows how to polish and age the case

Click Here to see Larger Step-by-Step Images

Paper is all you need: You can use an industrial polisher to finish your case but this will give a "brand new shine" depending on which grade of buffing wheel you use. Below I will finish this case using only wet and dry grit paper. When done correctly it will give a low-level shine as you would expect on a watch that is over 50 year old

Below: Start by rubbing the case with P400 wet and dry

Below: This image shows a case thats been polished using a machine. This is fine but it does look too new.

Below: When you polish the case you will start to see any errors you have made. Get them all out.

Below: The case has had P400 wet and dry and now its had P1200 wet and dry (a very fine grade paper). I usually rub the p1200 on itself  (rub 2 surfaces of p1200 together) to make it even finer. Then rub the case, you will find that the paper on its own will polish the case to a nice level (not too shiny).

Below: Polished with only paper

Ageing the Case Further using acid and making it look 50 years old

I have separated these stages as some people will not have acid or prefer not to work with it. Acid will add very fast aging to the case. Here is how its done.

Below: The case is being prepared with P1200 wet and dry. You can skip this process as shown above if you have already polished your case with p1200, simply dont polish the case too much and make it too shiny

Below: Make the case shiny but not too shiny (a little dull)

Below: This is what the finish should look like before acid

Below: The case has been dipped into hydrochloric acid for around 5 minutes (test first with a piece of stainless steel as acid come in different strengths).

Below: 5 minutes later

Below: later the case will be lightly polished in places, this image shows the case not polished straight after acid.

Below: Now its time to polish some areas with a cloth to remove some of the acid ageing. Do not used wet and dry paper.

Below: The inside of the case is nicely aged and is left as it it.

 

6152 Case Project – Rear Case

How to build the 6152 step-by-step using the Nightwatch 6152 Case:

This section shows how to shape the rear of the case

Click Here to see Larger Step-by-Step Images

Important: Try not to get the shape around the edge perfectly round. If you look at the image below you can see that the Case Edge on the authentic case doesnt follow the exact curve of the Case Back Edge.

Below: The red arrows show the areas to be filed.

Below: Use a small flat file to do this work

Below: Start by working the curve with your file this will shape the following

  1. The outer back edge of the case
  2. The bottom curvature of the case

Below: Note how its even and smooth, remove the file marks with P400 wet and dry paper.

Below: This is an important image because it shows the curvature of the rear of the case. The case is already shaped well so all you are doing is adjusting it a little to get the same curve as shown in the image below.

Below: The case is starting to take shape. At this stage its been finished with P400 wet and dry

Below: Look carefully and you can see it needs a little more metal taking off. Dont worry if you dont get it right first time and always remember not to take too much metal off if this is your first time.

Below: After some adjustment we have the correct shape, this shape compares well with a genuine case.

Below: The adjustments that have been made have also shaped the rear a little.

6152 Case Project – Lug shaping.

How to build the 6152 step-by-step using the Nightwatch 6152 Case:

This section shows how to shape the Lugs

Click Here to see Larger Step-by-Step Images

Important: The 6152 has added metal to the top surface of the Lugs. This is so that you can shape the lugs to the desired dimensions, to give the "step" you see in the images below. Remember, try not to remove too much metal, if you want to remove more you can always do this later.

Below: I am going to use a small fine/medium flat file. Note the edge of the file, make sure that the smooth side is the side you use near the top surface of the case.

Below: This is the side you should NOT use. Keep this side away from the case

Below: Start by filing down the top surface of the lugs.

Below: Start with one lug and try and get it right before starting on the next

Below: When you remove metal from the top surface you will see a small curve of metal starting to form in the corner of the lug (see red arrow). Use a small square file to remove this

Below: This is an image of the type of file you require

Below: The "step" has been formed to the depth that is required. The case comes with a "step" and for some people this may be enough. However, because extra metal has been added in this area you have the opportunity to make the step as small or as deep as you wish.

Below: We can now compare our case with a genuine case. Tip: Lighting can play tricks, what you see in the image isn't always accurate so compare different images.

Below: If you look at the case from the side, the step doesn't look as deep. This is because the top surface edge of the case curves down towards the top of the lug.

Below: Now its time to smooth out the rear of the lugs, the image below shows the area to be filed flat.

Below: It doesn't take long and with a little filing the area is soon flat.

Below: Dont forget to finish smoothing the area using P400 wet and dry paper (or grit paper).

Below: This area has not been polished on a polishing machine. Instead you can get great results just by using P1200 wet and dry paper. This gives more of an aged finish and not the super bright finish that the polishing machine gives.

How to cut a stem and fit a Crown Guard

Below are some tips on setting up the Crown Guard Lever so that it closes just right. The lever should close firmly so that it applies some pressure to the Crown. Panerai used this design so that their watches remained water tight in deep water.

1) Winding Stem: Cut the Winding stem so that you are able to set the hands (adjust the time of the watch). Be careful!.... do NOT try to cut it accurately first time. Often I have to adjust the winding stem a few times so that its the perfect length, do this by cutting a very little, even filing or grinding the stem. Cut a little, try it, cut a little, try it...take your time do a little each time. If you cut it too long then you will not be able to set the hands when inside the Crown Guard. If you cut it too short then when you set the hands it wont go back into the winding position. Do this first BEFORE you adjust the Crown Guard lever.

2) Crown Guard Lever: These are always made to be a little larger than is required. This is because the lever can be filed to be the correct size for all the different movements that are used to build projects. Do NOT file the lever until you have cut the winding stem to the correct length! When you try to close the lever for the first time it will not close as the lever will be too large. File a little off the "point of the lever", then try... do NOT try to get it correct first time. Repeat over again and adjust it a little each time until you get it just right. The lever should close firmly and apply some pressure to the crown, but it should not be too tight that its difficult to close.

Here are some Step by Step Imaged and Instructions

Below:  You may want to file the Crown Guard first. Normally there is a small step on the Top Front and Bottom Front of the Crown Guard. Theres also a little filing along the edges near the crown, see arrows below.

Below: The lever will be too large at first. All levers should be filed to the exact size for a nice firm fit when the crown guard closes. Movement stems are not the same, so the lever is made a little larger than is normally required. DO NOT File this lever until the crown and stem are 100% correct!

Below: A good crown guard will use 2mm screws, check that it aligns correctly with the case.

Below: Also check that the lever sits nicely against the case. There should not be a large gap.

Below: To fit, mark and then cut your stem so that it is "close" do NOT try to cut it perfect first time, you will probably fail. Cut it a Little Too Large!

Below: The stem is too long the Crown does not close fully. This is ok, we now need to adjust the length of the stem carefully. Do a little at a time.

Below: Now we can grind a little off the stem. Do a little (not too much ) and test, repeat until perfect.

Below: Now the stem is close to the Crown we can test the Crown Guard to see if the Crown will open inside the Crown Guard. If it doesnt, grind a little more off the stem.

Below: What happens when you have made a mistake and taken too much off the stem! The crown will not close, the stem is now too short. Dont worry there is a solution.

Below: here is a nice tip. We cannot make the stem longer but by adding a little cold solder into the crown then screwing the stem into the crown it will crush the solder so that the stem is a little longer. Dont heat up the solder simply cut a little off with a sharp knife. Dont add too much solder if there isn't enough simply add a little more.

Below: Now we can test the crown and the lever. The lever should close firmly (not too firm) and the crown should pull out easily inside the crown guard.

Below: The completed crown guard and stem correctly fitted.